Top 8 for the Haut Marais

Top 8 for the Haut Marais Image

Once a neighborhood I loved to get lost in early on a Sunday morning, I now weave through the historic streets of the Marais knowing exactly where each street will take me. Over the last two years, the Haut Marais (the northern section of the third arrondissement quite different from the Marais of St Paul) has been my home. And this past week, my last week in Paris, visiting my favorite local boutiques and cafés in the Marais just one last time has been all I’ve wanted to do. On days when I’m homesick for France, I like to imagine that a part of me will always be here wandering passed the parks on Rue Payenne or stopping at Café Charlot to say hello to my favorite waiter. But in my absence, I hope my Marais address book will bring you as much joy as it has me.

{A little bit of café culture}

Café Charlot • 38 rue de Bretagne
Whether for a late morning coffee or an afternoon Perrier, Café Charlot, a traditional French café, is where I head first. Though on a sunny day, especially in winter, getting a seat on Charlot’s terrace is next to impossible. They also make the most amazing brunch, which unlike most places in Paris, is available daily.

Café Charlot

Loustic • 40 rue Chapon
As Charlot is traditional, Loustic epitomizes the culture of the younger generation of Parisians. The coffee shop pulls some of Paris’ best espresso and has one of the best ambiances of any coffee shop I’ve been to. Plus it’s decorated in beautiful vintage Hermes wallpaper. Need I say more?

{A little bit of shopping}

Shine • 15 rue de Poitou
One of the first boutiques to carry Marc Jabobs in Paris, Shine has since developed a reputation for having the best of new and upcoming international designers. Recently their collection of Aurélie Bidermann jewelry has me salivating each time I pass their boutique… which is a daily occurance.

L’Artisan Fleuriste • 95 rue Vieille du Temple
My bad days never stayed bad for long. L’Artisan Fleuriste always had a way of bringing me out from under a grey cloud. I love making up my own selection of flowers with the help of the florist who then transforms them into the most beautiful bouquet.

{A little bit of savory}


Candelaria • 52 rue de Saintonge
Every city has a restaurant or two that is so distinct, so different from surrounding restaurants, that it feels like you’re in a completely different country. Candelaria is just that place for me. The aroma of spices fills the small dining area and the rolling melody of Spanish, quite different from that of French, makes me question whether or not I’m still in Paris. Better yet are the cocktails mixed with habanero (no piment d’Espelette here!) happily shaken in the back bar.

{A little bit of sweet}

Popelini • 29 rue Debelleyme
Everybody loves a little bit of choux pastries. Recently in the Parisian culinary scene, the trend for cream puffs was followed by a renaissance of éclairs. Lucky for me, I live on the same street as Popelini, one of Paris’ best patisserie mastering in les choux à la crème.

{A little bit of concept}

Broken Arm • 12 rue Perrée
One of the latest concept stores to open in Paris, Broken Arm is quite the favorite to Parisian hipsters who are attracted to the high quality, eclectic selection from international designers and brands. The Limited Edition Nike shoes made me laugh, but I stopped snickering when I discovered they also sell Aurelie Bidermann pieces. The adjoined café is another great address for best coffee in Paris and I love stopping by for a light (delicious, fresh, happy) lunch.


Merci • 111 boulevard Beaumarchais
I’ve mentioned my love of Merci before, so is should come as no surprise that it is one of my favorite places in the Marais. Everything is great about Merci, whether stopping by for lunch or just passing through to see what’s new (and there is always something new).

Is there something you think I missed? What are some of your favorite addresses in the Marais?

10 comments… add one
  1. sherman kaplan August 19, 2013, 3:44 pm

    My wife cannot visit Paris without a stop at Metal Pontus. We always stay in the 6th, and feel about it the way you love the Marais, but our trip would not be complete with a visit. Relaxing in the Place des Voges is one of our great pleasures!

    1. Stephanie August 19, 2013, 6:53 pm

      It’s a wonderful place! I’ve been lucky to live so close to Place des Vosges and I love the Marais.

  2. susan August 19, 2013, 5:12 pm

    Bookmarking, and many names are familiar…I hope to stay in the marais when I visit!

    1. Stephanie August 19, 2013, 6:54 pm

      It’s true I love all the popular spots. But I frequent them so often that they are more like my local joints. I hope you have a great time exploring when you’re here next!

  3. The Wanderfull Traveler August 19, 2013, 6:26 pm

    A handy list I will have to pin to my Pinterest board featuring some France travel ideas.
    How will you spend you last dat in Paris?
    Good luck on your move back home this week.


    1. Stephanie August 19, 2013, 6:59 pm

      I’ve spent my last day in Paris on a roller coaster 😉 More honestly though it’s been a mix of seeing dear friends, trying to pack everything so the bags aren’t overweight which also meant trips to the post office, and cleaning my apartment. I did make it to Charlot for breakfast (love les oeufs pochés à la norvegienne) and a healthy, delicious lunch at Merci. Then I Vélib’d along the Seine until I got to the Eiffel Tower and took the metro back. I’m going to miss this place!

  4. Virginia August 19, 2013, 6:40 pm

    I agree about the Marais. I go over and over and over. I didn’t know the cafes you mentioned but I always peek in Merci and L’artisan Fleuriste was on my list this last time as I was photographing flowers in Paris for a local magazine. The owner was so charming!

    Yak and Yeti, near St. Paul is a tiny little Nepalese shop that I stumbled on many years ago and always stop in and buy felted wool gifts for friends.

    1. Stephanie August 19, 2013, 7:02 pm

      Yak and Yeti is a fun place! I do love L’artisan fleuriste – they have the most beautiful flowers and you can get stunning bouquets for the price of the “generic” ones at Happy. They have a wonderful thing going on there!

  5. Steffi August 24, 2013, 6:34 pm

    Hey Stephanie!
    I just discovered your blog. Such a bummer we never met! I worked in that building on the left on your first picture until the end of july (I know the guy on the bike that’s on the sidewalk ;-)). Thanks for the Top 8. Maybe I’ll get to discover some of these places as I have planned to stroll around a bit in the Marais next week (I might be leaving France very soon, too…).

    Greetings from Paris to Philadelphia!

    1. Stephanie August 28, 2013, 1:13 pm

      What a shame! I would have loved getting together – I love making new friends especially in the Marais. So strange you recognize someone in a random photo I shared! I’ve always wondered if people would stumble across pictures of themselves in my work or visa versa. I hope you enjoy the Marais! I know I’ll miss it very much!!


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